Some locations are just utterly magical. Red Hill is one of them. You follow a small dirt track until you come to a place where the trees part to reveal a huge rock slab, with swirls of pink and white, rimmed by orange natives. Scattered across the surface are small dark stones that don’t seem to have come from the rock, and here and there small shrubs have sprouted on the stone. It’s silent and you’re alone. Yet, you’re in the heart of Sydney.

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